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Monday, 7 September 2020

A glimpse into the lives of Ipoh’s early tin miners

The Han Chin Pet Soo, or Han Chin Villa in Ipoh Old Town. (Malaysia Traveller pic)

Han Chin Pet Soo, or Han Chin Villa, located at the edge of Ipoh’s Old Town, is the country’s first Hakka tin mining museum.

Housed in the beautifully restored Hakka Miners’ Club building, it provides a fascinating insight into the shadowy goings-on at the tin miners’ club, where prostitution, gambling, opium smoking and triad activities went on behind its elegant façade.

The exhibition also tells the story of the Hakka people and describes the tin mining industry in Perak.

The villa has been fitted out with a great collection of antique furniture, curiosities, collectables and artefacts.

History of Han Chin Pet Soo

Leong Fee founded the Han Chin Tin Miner’s Club. (Malaysia Traveller pic)

Leong Fee was born in Guangdong Province, China, in 1857. He arrived in Penang as a penniless migrant in 1876.

With good luck and hard work, he soon had fingers in many pies, but it was in tin mining that he had his greatest success.

He founded the Han Chin Tin Miners’ Club in a shophouse at No 3 Treacher Street (now Jalan Bijeh Timah) where the villa stands today.

The club was a place for Hakka miners, who were the only ones allowed in, to let off steam after a hard day in the tin mines.

When Leong Fee died in 1912, he left behind four wives, several concubines and numerous broken-hearted “dancing girls” who were employed in this club and in similar establishments.

Mahjong session with ‘sing song girl’ in attendance. (Malaysia Traveller pic)

In 1927, the club bought the villa from Leong’s son and in 1929, rebuilt it into the fine building it is today.

The club continued for many decades but with the decline of the tin industry, its membership dwindled and the building fell into semi-disrepair.

In 2013, it was leased out to Ipoh World Sdn Bhd, a non-profit organisation focused on preserving Perak’s rich heritage.

Ipoh World has done an excellent job of restoring the building to its former glory and creating exhibition galleries.

The dining room of the villa has been set up the way it would have been to receive the members for dinner. (Malaysia Traveller pic)

Tin Mining

A former bedroom has been converted into a cinema screening an 11-minute black-and-white documentary, produced in Hollywood in the 1930s, called Tin from the Malayan Jungle.

The documentary is not an Oscar winner but it explains the various methods of tin mining and has pictures of a tin dredge in action.

The rear courtyard of the club has been painted with murals depicting street scenes from the old days. (Malaysia Traveller pic)

These mining techniques are illustrated further with murals, life-sized mannequins and authentic tools and equipment from the period.

Four evils

The four evils that tempted and tormented Hakka tin miners, both rich and poor, were opium, gambling, prostitution and the triads (secret societies).

These are explained in some detail in the museum. Needless to say, with all this monkey business going on, wives were not allowed inside the club.

Photo from the 1920s or 1930s of four ‘karayuki-san’. It is estimated there were 50 Japanese prostitutes working in Ipoh in 1921. (Malaysia Traveller pic)

Hakka people

On the top floor is a gallery dedicated to the history and background of the Hakka and how they ended up in Malaysia.

The Hakka are described as “The Jews of Asia” reflecting their history of mass migration over the centuries as well as their pioneering spirit.

Opium smokers. They rested their heads on ceramic pillows which were hollow for storing their valuables. The opium benches in the exhibition are beautifully carved. (Malaysia Traveller pic)

It is rare to have the opportunity to visit such a well-preserved heritage building in Malaysia, especially one that has faithfully retained its original look and purpose. It should definitely be on the itinerary of anyone visiting Ipoh.

The building can also be booked for private functions, themed dinners, corporate events, wedding photos and so on.

Opening hours and admission charges

Entry is by appointment only. There are four appointment slots daily from Tuesday to Sunday (closed on Monday).

It is easy to make an appointment through Ipoh World’s automated booking system.

Admission is free but donations are welcome (and necessary if the museum is to keep going).

This article first appeared in Malaysia Traveller



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